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Archive for the ‘Nunc est bibendum’ Category

Guided tour

Arria Perreault guides you through the exhibit “Nunc est bibendum”

in french

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Avete omnes,

Passionnée d’histoire et de la Rome antique, SL a été un excellent outil pour approfondir mes connaissances et vivre une expérience unique, dans un univers virtuel.

Le merveilleux sim ROMA SPQR, me donne la possibilité de vivre dans la rome antique et avec un des meilleurs bâtisseur de Second Life, Lef Leven, nous avons construit une domus, des latrines publiques, un ludus (école de gladiateur),  ainsi qu’une fullonica, ARS AVETE, nos magasins offrent la possibilité d’acquérir des objets d’art ancien.

Le souci du détail et de la ressemblance avec les bâtiments et objets d’époque, nous ont obligés à faire de nombreuses recherches. Les peintures murales sur nos édifices sont reproduites avec autant d’exactitude que peut le permettre le jeu.

L’exposition Nunc Est Bibendum, représente un projet que j’avais à coeur depuis longtemps. Arria Perreault, m’a permis de réaliser un rêve virtuel, et je la remercie.

Par le biais de cette exposition, je voulais démontrer, que Second Life, peut être un outil intéressant pour la culture, l’enseignement et aussi encourager les personnes à créer des musées virtuels.

De nombreuses recherches ont été faites pour les notes explicatives de cette exposition. Je ne pourrais citer toutes les sources, car elles sont nombreuses. Certains textes ont été traduits, car les informations sur le web étaient souvent incomplètes. L’italien viendra prochainement étoffer les différents dossiers de ce projet.

J’espère que vous apprécierez mon travail, et que vous viendrez visiter ce merveilleux monastère, où une poule et un fantôme vous accueilleront, si je ne suis pas sur les lieux.

N’hésitez pas à m’envoyer un IM, je viendrai vous accueillir avec un AVE digne de l’époque romaine….

Salvete

Popea Heron

Les informations pour ce projet ont été obtenues dans les livres et les sites web suivants :
Information for this project was obtained from the following books and websites :
Wikipedia, Encyclopaedia Romana, Legio VI Ferrata Fidelas Constans, Les Grandes Civilisations Rome Reader’s Digest, Rome et l’Empire Romain Les Encyclopes ed. Milan, Firenze Carol The Passionate Olive New York Ballantines Books 2005, Quets Riston Charles Olive Oil New York : DK Publishing 2006 i.a. (Harrap’s Compact Dictionary pour les textes traduits par P.H. / for the translations made by P.H.)

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MARCUS GAVIUS APICIUS

Marcus Gavius Apicius (b. 25 BC) is known as a culinary expert and he provided us with information on ancient Roman cuisine.

Apicius was considered to be a strange character who enjoyed “high society” and “living well”.

Known for his sauces and extravagant dishes, he served oddities such as flamingo and nightingale tongues, camel heels, roasted ostrich and stuffed sterile sow’s womb. These dishes were meant to startle the middle class.

We see the same such attempts today with items such as chocolate covered grasshoppers, alligator tail and ostrich.

As Apicius’ finances fell into disarray he feared he could no longer maintain his extravagant and expensive lifestyle and chose to take his own life by poisoning himself.

There are many interesting stories about Apicius. He was ridiculously absurd in his search of the ultimate culinary experience.  Pliny credits Apicius with the idea of force feeding figs to geese to enlarge their livers. This would indicate that the origins of foie gras are Italian instead of French.

It is assumed that this Apicius was responsible for two cookbooks. Apicius’ first book, De condituris, was completely on sauces. This was later absorbed into De re coquinaria, one of the oldest cookbooks found, which was a single volume of various recipes integrated together. This 2nd cookbook was compiled around the 4th century.

RECIPES INSIDE THE WATERMELON

MARCUS GAVIUS APICIUS

Nous connaissons la cuisine romaine grâce à Marcus Gavius Apicius, qui vécut au début du Ier siècle après J.-C.
Il était connu pour ses excentricités. C’est de lui que nous viennent des plats étranges et des épices inconnues dont nous avons gardé l’idée un peu fausse qu’ils représentaient le luxe de la table romaine :
talons de chameaux, langues de flamants, de rossignols ou de paons, tétines de truie farcies aux oursins.

Ses recettes montrent que les Romains préfèrent les plats «mous » : viandes bouillies, boudins… La cuisine est à l’huile. Le beurre n’est utilisé que comme médicament.

LES RECETTES SE TROUVENT DANS LA PASTEQUE

POPEA HERON

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WINE – LE VIN

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WINE AND ROME
In Italy, grape vines were cultivated both in the north by the Etruscans and in the south by Greek colonists. Wine growing was less important to the Romans, who, in the early years of the Republic, were fighting to expand their domination of the peninsula.

By the middle of the second century BC, however, with the defeat of the Etruscans and the Samnites, Pyrrhus and the Greeks, Philip of Macedonia and the Carthaginians, Rome controlled the Mediterranean, and there were both the wealth and markets to invest in vineyards.

The earliest work on wine and agriculture was written in Punic. After the destruction of Carthage in 146 BC, the Senate decreed that this treatise be translated into Latin, and it subsequently became the source for all Roman writing on viticulture.

Ironically, it was Cato who had insisted on the destruction of Carthage in the Punic wars and who, about 160 BC, wrote De Agri Cultura, the first survey of Roman viticulture, which, significantly, also is the earliest surviving prose work in Latin.

In it, he discusses the production of wine on large slave-based villa estates, which suggests how important vine cultivation had become in an agrarian economy that traditionally was subsistence farming.

Indeed, by 154 BC, says Pliny, wine production in Italy was unsurpassed. That same year, the cultivation of vines was prohibited beyond the Alps, and, for the first two centuries BC, wine was exported to the provinces, especially to Gaul, in exchange for the slaves whose labor was needed to cultivate the large estate vineyards. (In part, the wine trade with Gaul was so extensive because its inhabitants, writes Diodorus Siculus, were besotted by wine, which was drunk unmixed and without moderation).

Mulsum was wine heavily sweetened with honey. Often freely dispensed to the plebs at public events to solicit their political support, the demand for it became so great that it was more profitable to sell wine at home than to export it and, by the first century AD, wine had to be imported from Iberia and Gaul.

In 37 BC, Varro wrote Res Rusticae (“Country Matters”), a manual on farming. His discussion of viticulture is more cursory than Cato’s, but he does say that some grapes produce wines that must be drunk within a year, before they become too bitter, while others, such as Falernian, mature with age and increase in value.

A century later, Pliny was to say the same thing: that nothing experienced a greater increase in value than wine that had been cellered up to twenty years or a greater decrease in value afterwards (XIV.57).

The most comprehensive account of Roman viticulture is by Columella. In De Re Rustica (“On Country Matters”), written around AD 65, he discusses all aspects of the villa system and wine production.

The best wine, he says, is that “which has given pleasure by its own natural quality,” although the pitch that sometimes was used to seal the inside of amphorae is likely to have dissolved in the wine and imparted a resinous taste.

In AD 77, two years before his death while observing the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, Pliny completed his Natural History. In Book XIV, he reviews the history of wine, its viticulture and vinification. Pliny laments the increased production of cheap wines and the loss of quality vintages. Traditionally, the best wine was reputed to have been Caecuban from Latium, but it no longer existed, the neglected vineyards having been dug up by Nero for the construction of a canal.

Augustus was said to have preferred Setine (although Suetonius says it was Rhaetic from Verona). In Pliny’s time, the best wine was considered to be Falernian, grown on the slopes of Mount Falernus on the border between Latium and Campania.

Next in rank were the wines of the Alban Hills southeast of Rome, and Surrentine and Massic (among others) from the Campania. Finally, there was Mamertine from Messina, first brought into favor by Julius Caesar, who had it served at public banquets.

But it was Falernian that elicits the most praise. Made from the Aminean grape, “a producer of exceedingly good wine,” according to Columella, it was brought to Italy by Greek colonists who first settled at Cumae near the Bay of Naples.

Pliny says that three types were recognized: Caucinian, which was grown on the higher slopes; and then, midway down, Faustian (grown on the estate of Faustus, the son of the dictator Sulla, and regarded as the best and most carefully produced); and, on the lower slopes, Falernian.

Galen is the last to comment on Roman taste in wine. A doctor at a gladiatorial school in Pergamum before becoming, in AD 169, the personal physician to Marcus Aurelius, he had used wine to bathe the wounds of gladiators and to concoct potions of wine and drugs (theriacs) to protect the emperor from poison.

In De Antidotis (“On Antidotes”), he writes that Faustian Falernian had no equal, which was something he discovered by going through the Palatine cellars, beginning with wines at least twenty years old and tasting each vintage until he found the oldest one that still was sweet and had no bitterness.

This would have been served to the emperor in goblets carved of myrrhina (fluorspar) or rock crystal, precious metal or blown glass. (In his Meditations, Aurelius also speaks of Falernian.

As a Stoic he was less impressed with the wine he drank and reminds himself: “Surely it is an excellent plan, when you are seated before delicacies and choice foods, to impress upon your imagination…that the Falernian wine is grape juice.”)

WINE AND ROME II
Distillation was unknown in the ancient world (and would not be discovered until the early middle ages); wine, therefore, was the strongest drink of the Romans.

Vintage wines could be kept for long time because they were stored in amphorae. These were large tapering two-handled clay jars, with a narrow neck that was sealed with cork plastered over with cement, and held approximately 26 liters or almost 7 gallons.

Vines were pruned and tended, and the grapes cut and brought in baskets to be trodden or crushed in the wine press, which the Romans had developed and which produced a second, inferior run.

The must (juice) then underwent fermentation and maturation. Weaker wines were aged in large clay containers (dolia) partially buried in the floor.

More full-bodied wines, such as those from the Campania, were fermented in the open air to promote the oxidation characteristic of a mature wine–exposed, says Pliny, “to the sun, moon, rain and wind” (XIV.136). The wine then was racked (transferred) to amphorae either for storage, sometimes in a warm, smoky loft to promote aging; or for transport, which usually was by boat. (It was cheaper to ship wine from one end of the Mediterranean to the other than to haul it seventy-five miles overland, which is one reason why most vineyards tended to be situated on the coast or near major rivers.)

At the time of Augustus, the taste was for strong, sweet wines, which meant that the grapes were left to ripen on the vine as long as possible, sometimes until the first frost of autumn, so as to concentrate the sugar that could be converted to alcohol.

Boiling also reduced and concentrated the must (defrutum or sapa, depending upon the concentration), which then was used to provide the necessary sugar for the fermentation of weaker wines or to make others sweeter still. (This sweet grape syrup also had potentially dangerous levels of dissolved lead.)

Honey was added as a sweetener, as well, to create mead. Wine also was flavored with spices, resin, or even sea water, all of which helped to act as a preservative or mask sour wine that was turning to vinegar (bacteria oxidizing the alcohol of the wine into acetic acid and ethyl acetate).

Wine almost always was mixed with water for drinking; undiluted wine (merum) was considered the habit of provincials and barbarians.

The Romans usually mixed one part wine to two parts water (sometimes hot or even salted with sea water to cut some of the sweetness).

The Greeks tended to dilute their wine with three or four parts water, which they always mixed by adding the wine. The intention of the symposium was to enjoy the aesthetic pleasure of the wine, to be intoxicated just enough to have the mind released from inhibition and conversation stimulated.

At its Roman counterpart, the convivium, there was a tendency to get drunk more blatantly.

The Campanian coast around Pompeii and the Surrentine peninsula were popular with Romans of wealth and fashion, many of whom had vineyards and villas there. Greek culture still was strong, and its vines were considered among the best in Italy.

Smothered by ash in the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79, Pompeii preserves a vivid picture of Roman life at the time. Wine prices were posted and varied for wines of different quality (one, two, three, or four asses per sextarius or pint; by comparison, a loaf of bread cost two asses).

On one wall of one tavern, the price list still can be read, “For one as you can drink wine; for two, you can drink the best; for four, you can drink Falernian.” In fact, genuine Falernian, a wine drunk by emperors, was not likely to have been available. The daily drink usually was red wine not more than a year old, drawn from amphorae stored at the counter, and drunk from earthenware mugs.
The eruption of Vesuvius destroyed some of the best vineyards in Italy. Growers replanted everywhere they could, at times even replacing fields sown for grain.

By the time Pliny wrote in the first century AD, Iberia was an important producer of wine, and wine first was beginning to be imported from Gaul, with new vines being planted at Narbonensis in the south (viticulture would spread northward and new vines introduced that were more suitable to the region, one of which was the biturica, the ancestor of cabernet varieties). Eventually, there was a glut. With the intention of preserving the supply of grain and, possibly, to protect the domestic wine industry, Domitian banned, in an edict of AD 92, the planting of any new vineyards in Italy and ordered the removal of half the vines in the provinces.

When, in AD 212, Caracalla conferred citizenship on all free inhabitants of the empire (the Constitutio Antoniniana), it eliminated the privilege of cultivating vines that had been the prerogative of Roman citizens. Now, all those in the provinces were permitted to grow wine grapes.

In AD 280, the edict which Domitian had imposed almost two hundred years earlier was revoked, although it may never have been enforced in the first place. Any restrictions on the development of viticulture now were completely removed

ROMAN WINES

POSCA

A sour vinegar like wine (acetum) mixed with water to reduce the bitterness and generally available to soldiers and lower classes.

Posca was a type of beverage popular among the Roman legions. It was made from wine that had begun to go sour and turn into vinegar.

This was diluted with water and occasionally sweetened with honey. Roman legionaries considered posca to be quite refreshing.
PASSUM, DEFRUTUM AND CARENUM

Passum

Raisin wine. Obviously made from nearly completely dried grapes. It’s most prized variety was imported from Crete

Defrutum is a reduction of must used by cooks and others in ancient Rome. It was made by boiling down grape juice or must (freshly squeezed grapes) in large kettles until it had been reduced by at least half (1/3 for carenum wine).

The sweetest defrutum was further boiled down into an even stronger concentrate called sapa.
 
MUSLUM

A common class wine, generally sweetened with honey and served to Plebes and the lower classes at public events.

Mulsum was usually served with hors-d’oeuvres. Regular consumption of mulsum was thought to stimulate appetite, aid digestion and even to prolong life.

Drinking it warm was supposed to help people overcome failure. A variant of Muslum is when honey is added while the wine is still fermenting.
FALERNIAN

A highly prized wine, available mainly to the upper classes. It was made from the Aminean grape originating near Naples, but transfered to Mt. Falernus between Latium and Campania.

These vines grew best around elm trees. It produced a full-bodied drink that was best when aged between 10 and 20 years, and had a near yeast killing alcohol content of up to 16%.

Pliny recorded that Falernian from the famed Opimian vintage of 121 BC was served at a banquet in 60 BC honoring Julius Caesar for his conquest of Spain.
The Roman poet Catullus extolled the virtues of Falernian in one of his poems :

Come, boy, you who serve out the old Falernian,
fill up stronger cups for me,
as the law of Postumia, mistress of the revels, ordains,

Postumia more tipsy than the tipsy grape.
But water, begone, away with you, water,
destruction of wine, and take up abode
with scrupulous folk. This is the pure Thyonian god.
SETINUM

A strong, sweet Italian wine of Latium considered perhaps the best of wines. It was the favored wine of Augustus hailing from the hills of Setia.

However, Setinum seems to have fallen into disfavor and became nearly extinct due to miscultivation and the canal of Nero that was dug out directly in this grapes natural habitat.
CAECUBAN

Another sweet wine of Latium. Before the imperial period, this seems to have been the most prized grape variety. This grape too, seems to have suffered under Nero’s canal.

To many in the first century BC Caecuban was the best of all wines, smoother than Falernian wine, fuller than Alban wine, strong and intoxicating. It was a white wine which turned fire-coloured as it aged.
MASSIC

Another product of Naples vines. It was considered a harsh wine.
 

MAMERTINE

This wine hailed from Sicily and was made fashionable by Julius Caesar. He served it often as his various public events and triumphs. The finest of this type was called Potalanum
LORA (Vinum Operarium)   

A bitter wine made from the grape skin husks, seeds and any other product left over from the pressing process. Fermented by soaking in water, it was generally served to slaves, though some lower classes, and even soldiers may have had access to wines that were hardly any better.

Varro, however claimed that it was the drink of old women. Today these excess grape products are used in distilling the liquor Grappa.

LE VIN
Première source de richesse de l’Italie, le vin fut abondamment décrit par les agronomes de l’époque.
Ils nous apprennent que les ceps étaient plantés dans tous terrains, sous des climats et expositions les plus divers et que c’est de vignes conduites sur des arbres comme l’olivier que proviennent les grands crus; les Romains considéraient qu’un véritable mariage se réalisait, l’arbre transmettant sa force à la vigne.

Nous savons aussi que l’on cultivait sur échalas, à hauteur d’homme, que l’on ne mélangeait pas les espèces et qu’on ne les faisait pas voisiner avec des cultures comme celles du radis, du chou, du laurier et du noisetier car, d’après les Anciens, “la vigne, on le sait, est douée d’odorat et prend étonnamment les odeurs, et au voisinage d’un parfum ennemi, se détourne, recule et le fuit”.

La conservation du vin s’avérait difficile d’autant plus qu’on ignorait tout du soutirage.

C’étaient les amphores qui étaient les plus aptes à le conserver de nombreuses années.

Ces récipients étaient enduits de poix pour assurer leur étanchéité, et entourés de paille ou de jonc tressé pour les protéger. Une fois remplies, un bouchon de liège ou de terre cuite fermait les amphores et on les scellait à la poix, argile ou plâtre avant d’y apposer un cachet.

D’après Pline, c’est au IIe s. av. J.-C. qu’apparaissent les premières caves: les apothèques (apotheca).

Contrairement à nos méthodes contemporaines, les Romains plaçaient leurs apothèques souvent au-dessus de pièces chauffées dans un lieu exposé à la fumée (fumarium), où on y procédait, à environ 60°, à une véritable pasteurisation qui limitait les phénomènes qui altèrent les vins qu’on laisse évoluer librement.

On plaçait ensuite les vins dans d’autres compartiments de l’apothèque dans une atmosphère un peu moins chaude, propice à leur vieillissement.Chaque année les amphores plus jeunes venaient se placer devant les plus anciennes. Pline parle d’un certain Hortensius qui laissa à ses héritiers plus de 10.000 amphores de vin; c’est dire que de véritables fortunes en vins précieux se constituaient dans certaines apothèques.

Cependant si les vins les plus prisés étaient bus vieux et si des exemples extrêmes de conservation sont relatés, beaucoup d’entre eux perdaient leurs qualités passé une vingtaine d’années.

Pour renforcer des vins faibles ou rechercher des arômes différents, de nombreux produits étaient rajoutés: sel et poivre, miel, résine, plantes ou graines parfumées…

L’agronome Columelle cite trois adjuvants: le fenugrec qui donne une saveur de noix, la racine d’iris qui apporte un parfum de rose et de violette et un troisième, inconnu, désigné sous le terme “d’herbe à chameaux”.

Ces arômes étaient ajoutés lors de la fermentation en dolia, ou plus tard, lors de leur mise en amphores, voire de leur dégustation. Ils entraient dans la fabrication d’un vin ambré appelé turriculae

Les vins n’étaient pas bus purs; on les “coupait” avec de l’eau, pratique qui subsistera d’ailleurs longtemps après les Romains.

Les riches maisonnées possédaient souvent des glacières dans les sous-sols, alimentées en hiver de blocs de glace que l’on conservait dans de la paille. Cela permettait de servir certains vins, comme le mulsum, frais, en le servant dans de la glace pilée ou en le faisant couler sur de la glace.

Le vinaigre

Le vinaigre est un vin dont l’alcool a été transformé en acide acétique par un germe appelé “mycoderma aceti”. Le vinaigre est connu depuis la plus haute Antiquité; les Grecs s’en servaient avec de l’huile pour assaisonner des viandes bouillies.

Les Romains en faisaient également grand usage, sous le nom de posca et allongé d’eau, il désaltérait les légions de César.

L’Orient appréciait cette boisson dite hygiénique, tonique et rafraîchissante.

Emerveillé par tant de vertus, le Moyen-Age le mit à toutes les sauces et bientôt le vinaigre fut partout: en cuisine, car il rehausse le goût des aliments et aide à les conserver.

En médecine, il facilite la digestion et possède des propriétés antiseptiques.

LE VIN

Les romains fabriquaient plusieurs sortes de vins: le vin de paille (vinum passum), le vin miellé (vinum mulsum), les vins artificiels à base d’absinthe, à la rose, à la violette, au poivre qui servaient d’apéritifs ou de médicaments, les vins de fruits (coins, grenades …) et le vinaigre coupé d’eau (boisson du légionnaire).

Les romains qui aimaient le vin le buvaient de préférence frais et généralement coupé d’eau.

Le prix du vin n’était pas très élevé. Les crus les plus réputés provenaient de Capoue, de Pompéi, de Messine et surtout de Falerne. Les vins fermentés étaient interdits aux femmes.

LE VIN LORS DES BANQUETS

Les amphores sont débouchées pendant le repas. Le vin est versé dans un cratère. Il est filtré avec une passoire car il contient beaucoup de dépôt.

Les Romains y ajoutent un à deux tiers d’eau fraîche ou au contraire, tiède ; parfois même de l’eau de mer.

Le vin peut être parfumé à la rose, mais le plus apprécié est le vin au miel. Ce sont les ministratores (serviteurs) qui remplissent les coupes.

LES DIFFERENTES SORTES DE VINS

POSCA

Dans l’Antiquité romaine, la posca était un vin amer composé en fait de vinaigre allongé d’eau et parfois adouci au jaune d’œuf.

À l’origine, la posca était bien du vin, mais du fait de mauvaises méthodes de conservation, elle se transformait rapidement en vinaigre.

Elle était alors coupée d’eau, ce qui la rendait plus désaltérante et permettait de réaliser des économies.

Comme le vin, la posca était commercialisée, sans doute à grande échelle, dans des tonneaux et des outres, voire transportée en vrac dans de gros dolia (amphores de très grande taille) par voie maritime.

Cette boisson bon marché, réputée très rafraîchissante, était essentiellement servie aux légionnaires, au peuple et aux esclaves.

Chez les légionnaires, la posca était transportée dans une fiole accrochée à la ceinture.
La posca n’était pas considéré comme un vin de plaisir mais était très appréciée parce qu’elle coupait efficacement la soif. De plus, cette boisson avait semble-t-il des vertus antiseptiques.

Ce qui était d’usage chez les soldats durant l’Antiquité, c’était d’ajouter des “drogues” à ce vinaigre. Soit de la myrrhe (le sopor), soit du fiel, ce qui était sensé atténuer les souffrances.
PASSUM, DEFRITUM ET CARENUM

Le passum, c’est notre vin de paille, un vin doux obtenu naturellement en pressant des raisins séchés sur des claies, ou laissés à confire sur le cep.

Defritum et carenum sont couramment utilisés dans les recettes mais n’apparaissent pas dans les coupes des convives. Ces deux produits, plus proches d’un sirop que d’un vin épais, étaient obtenus après avoir fait cuire le moût, jus du raisin venant d’être pressé, qu’on écumait et qu’on faisait épaissir jusqu’à réduction de moitié pour le defritum, d’un tiers pour le carenum.
LE MUSLUM

Le Mulsum, littéralement “miellé”, était un vin très apprécié des grecs, puis des romains. Sa réputation était grande, et il était préféré au “gustatio”, c’est-à-dire à l’apéritif.

Plusieurs auteurs en décrivent la préparation ou les vertus.

Columelle : « Tirez de la cuve sans attendre du vin mère goutte, c’est à dire celui qui aura coulé avant que le raisin n’ait été trop fortement foulé. Mais faites ce moût avec du raisin de vigne arbustive cueilli par temps sec. Vous verserez dans une urne de moût dix livres d’excellent miel et, après avoir mélangé soigneusement, vous en remplirez un flacon que vous fermerez immédiatement au plâtre et placerez à l’étage. Au bout de vingt-et-un jours, il faudra ouvrir le flacon, décanter le moût dans un autre vase que l’on lutera, et le replacer à la fumée. »
FALERNE

De tous les vins, c’est le Falerne qui était le plus apprécié: le plus ancien des grands crus de l’Italie possédait ses millésimes. La fameuse cuvée de l’année du consulat d’Opimius, en 121 avant J.-C., est restée longtemps célèbre. On en parlait encore du temps de Pline, 170 ans après !
LE SETIN

Le Setin, vin de première qualité mais plus léger et moins enivrant que le Falerne.

LE CAECUBAN (CECUBE)

Un autre vin doux du Latium, le Caecuban, avait la reputation pour sa variété de grappes, malheureusement, le vignoble a fort souffert à cause de la construction d’un canal ordonné par Neron.
LE MASSIQUE

Le Massique est un autre vin de la région de Naples. Il était réputé comme un vin très sévère.
LE MAMERTINE

Le Mamertine était le vin préféré de Jules César. Il le servait lors d’événements publics et lors de triomphes.
 

Popea Heron

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ROMANS AND FOOD
In ancient Rome, food preservation was of practical significance in everyday life. It was necessary to preserve excess food which was not to be used immediately in order to store it for future use.

In the Roman Empire, various methods were utilized in the preservation of food. Smoking, drying, and salting.

Salt:

The use of salt was an important means of preservation for the Romans. They used it for dry-salting and for pickling. Various types of salt were used :  rock salt (sal facitum), sea salt (sal navitum), and sometimes even salt mixed with spices (sal conditum).

They salted their meat and it was salted in the following way: ham was placed, skin side down, and cover completely with salt. Salt was also used by the Romans to preserve other items.

Fish was preserved in a manner similar to that used for ham. Fresh fish was washed with water and course salt was then rubbed into the fish. Layers of fish were alternated with layers of salt and covered with dry matting. They were then left to stand for 3 to 5 days, after which the pile was turned over and left for an additional 3 to 5 days.

Eggs were preserved ‘by rubbing them with fine salt.
 
Meats

Romans ate beef rarely. It was a mark of luxury and was eaten only on special occasions. When a cow had been sacrificed to the gods, the heart, liver, and lungs would be given to the priests, with certain portions burned on the altar. A reason why beef was rarely eaten was due to its size. Only the coldest weather could allow the beef to stay fresh. Cows were usually used for draft and dairy reasons rather than consumption.

Pork was the most popular. It had several names; sus, porcus, porca, and aper. There were fifty different ways of cooking pork as well as six kinds of sausages based on pork.

In the religious ceremony suovetauralia (sus+ovis+taurus), the pig had the first place. Others meats such as mutton and veal was also consumed. Goat’s meat was eaten by mostly lower classes.

Fowl

Domestic fowls the Romans ate:

•    chickens
•    dicks
•    geese
•    pigeons

Wild fowls the Romans ate:

•    cranes
•    grouse
•    partridge
•    snipe
•    woodcock

The Romans also bred wild animals such as hares and boars, which were roasted and served. The dormouse was considered a delicacy.

Fishes

In the early times, fish was rarely consumed by the Romans. However, before the end of the Republic, this item, either a fresh or rare fish, brought the highest price. There was mullet (mullus) and a kind of turbot (rhombus). Fresh fish were expensive. Rich men had fishponds to breed fish. Salt fish, imported from most Mediterranean harbours, were cheap. A common dish of salt fish, eggs, and cheese was especially popular. Oysters were a delicacy.

Dairy Products

Dairy products used by the Romans:

•    milk
•    cream
•    curds
•    whey
•    cheese (white cheese only… no yellow cheeses)

Cheese from:

•    ewe’s milk was more digestible
•    cow’s milk was more palatable
•    goat’s milk was more popular, but considered less digestible
Honey was used as a sweetener.

Cereals

The general term for any grain grown for food is frumentum. The word “corn” also referred to grain, but not as the corn (maize) known today.

Romans ate:

•    wheat
•    barley
•    oats
•    rye
•    spelt- – far – its use was gradually only reduced to using for cakes of the confarreate ceremony

The Useful Olive

Olives were second most important to wheat.
The best olives came from Italy. The best oil came from not fully ripe olives, although the most oil came from fully ripe olives.

Olives were used as:

•    butter/fats
•    relishes/dressings
•    fruit(fresh/preserved)

Recipe:

•    olives
•    salt

1.    Sprinkle with salt and leave it alone for five days.

2.    After five days, shake salt off and dry in the sun or keep in boiled grape juice.
Half-ripe olives were picked with stems, placed in jars and covered with the best quality of oil. This was believed to retain the fresh flavor for more than a year. Green olives were pickled in strong brine, or crushed and preserved with spices and vinegar. This would be served as a relish. Aother relish used green, half-ripe, or ripe olives. The olives were chopped into pulp, seasoned with vinegar, coriander seeds, cumin, fennel, and mint. The resulting mixture was placed in jars. Oil was pour over to make it airtight. This would be served with cheese.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES :

Almonds, plums, apples, pomegranates, figs, quinces, filberts, walnuts, grapes, chestnuts, pears…

Artichokes, garlic, mushrooms, turnips, asparagus, leeks, olives, beans, lentils, onions, beets, lettuce, parsnips, broccoli, marrows, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons, radishes…
 

MEAT :

Beef, veal, lamb, boar, mutton, dormice, sausage, goat, snails, hare, sucking pig, kid, venison, chicken, goose, crane, ostrich, dove, partridge, duck, peacock, fig-peckers, pheasant, flamingo, pigeon, thrushes…
FISH :

Carp, mackerel, rays, catfish, mullet, sardines, clams, mussels, shark, crab, octopus, sole, eel, oysters, swordfish, flounder, perch, trout, hake, porpoise, tuna, lobster, prawns, turbot…
UNKNOWN :

Oranges, tea, avocado, bananas, corn, sugar, chili pepper, peanuts, chocolate, potatoes, tomatoes, coffee, rice, grapefruit….

MEALS

Traditionally in the morning a breakfast was served, the jentaculum, at noon a small lunch, and in the evening the main meal of the day, the cena.

Due to the influence of Greek habits and also the increased import of and consumption of foreign foods, the cena increased in size and diversity and was consumed in the afternoon, the vesperna was abandoned, and a second breakfast was introduced around noon, the prandium.

In the lower strata of society the old routine was preserved, because it corresponded more closely with the daily rhythm of manual labor.
JENTACULUM

Originally flat, round loaves made of emmer (a cereal grain closely related to wheat) with a bit of salt were eaten; in the higher classes also eggs, cheese and honey, along with milk and fruit.

In the imperial period, around the beginning of the Common Era, bread made of wheat was introduced and with time more and more baked products began to replace this emmer bread.

The bread was sometimes dipped in wine and eaten with olives, cheese, crackers, and grapes.
PRANDIUM

This second breakfast was richer and mostly consisted of the leftovers of the previous day’s cena.
CENA

Among members of the upper classes, who did not engage in manual labor, it became customary to schedule all business obligations in the morning.

After the prandium the last responsibilities would be discharged and then a visit would be made to the baths.

Around 3 o’clock, the cena would begin. This meal could last until late in the night, especially if guests were invited, and would often be followed by a comissatio (a round of drinks).

Especially in the period of the kings and the early republic, but also in later periods (for the working classes), the cena essentially consisted of a kind of porridge, the puls.

The simplest kind would be made from emmer, water, salt and fat. The more sophisticated kind was made with olive oil, with an accompaniment of assorted vegetables whenever possible.
             

ALIMENTATION DES ROMAINS

Chaque maisonnée romaine possédait ses réserves de farine, de miel, d’huile, des olives conservées dans de la saumure et des raisins secs, qui sont les denrées de base indispensables à la cuisine romaine . Elles étaient soigneusement conservées dans des jarres (dolia) et des amphores. La nourriture dépendait fortement de leur capacité à la conserver.

L’alimentation  est principalement composée de céréales comme l’orge, le blé et le froment.

Avec ces trois céréales on fabriquait une bouillie (pulmentum) qui resta, même pendant l’époque impériale l’aliment des plus pauvres.

Cette bouillie était relevée par des herbes aromatiques comme la menthe et assaisonnée d’huile, le beurre étant inconnu. Elle était accompagnée de légumes comme la laitue, les poireaux, les choux, les olives, les fèves ou de fromage de chèvre.

LA CONSERVATION DES ALIMENTS

Plusieurs méthodes ont été utilisées pour la conservation de la nourriture périssable :

Fumage, séchage, et salaison. La salaison était la technique la plus répandue et se faisait en utilisant du sel ou par immersion en saumure.
LES ALIMENTS

Le pain apparut assez tard à Rome (IIIe siècle av J.C). Des galettes de céréales le remplaçaient. Le pain était aromatisé avec des graines de pavot, d’anis et de céleri. On distinguait selon la qualité plusieurs types de pains: pain de fleur de farine, de farine moyenne, pain noir, pain complet, pain de son.

On le présentait généralement sous forme de miches rondes fendues en quatre.

La viande était réservée au jour de fête. Très tôt cependant, les familles riches prirent l’habitude de la consommer en abondance selon des préparations diverses.

Les romains avaient une préférence pour la viande de porc et pour les viandes bouillies plutôt que rôties. Ils appréciaient également les volailles et le gibier, mais aussi les oiseaux exotiques comme l’autruche, la cigogne, ou le paon.

Les sauces qui accompagnaient ces mets étaient généralement fort recherchées, l’une des préférées des romains était le garum obtenu à partir de poissons fermentés.

Pour la pâtisserie la préférence des romains allaient aux gâteaux à base de fromage souvent réduit en poudre. Ils étaient le plus souvent, présentés enduits de miel, saupoudrés de graines de pavots ou de sésames, et cuit sur des feuilles de plantes ou d’arbres aromatiques.

L’utilisation du sel était un moyen pour la conservation des aliments.

Le sel de roche (salt facitum)et le sel de mer (salt navitum), auxquels étaient mélangés également des épices.

Le sel de mer était obtenu en évaporant l’eau de mer dans des marais salants, ou des sources salées. Rome était bien approvisionnée en sel, un entrepôt important se situait à la bouche du Tibre.

Columelle mentionne l’utilisation du sel dans les préparations de fromage de chèvre, et Caton l’Ancien rapporte la façon dont on conservait les olives vertes dans la saumure et donne une procédure, connue parmi d’autres, pour faire des salaisons de jambons.

La charcuterie gauloise était renommée. Varron indique que les œufs étaient également conservés dans le sel.
CHEZ LE PRIMEUR :

Pommes, pêches, raisin, fraises, châtaignes, poires, figues, citrons, grenades, dattes, prunes, noix, amandes, choux, lentilles, fèves, laitue, chicorée, bettes, cresson, concombres, épinards, carottes, raves, melons, asperges, olives, poireaux, champignons, oseille, laurier, sauge, thym, ail, oignons, fenouil, sésame, persil, safran, poivre…

CHEZ LE BOUCHER :

Jambon, pâté, foie, saucisses, bœuf, porc, mouton, chèvre, lièvre, lapin, loir, canard, poulet, pigeon, grive, paon, merle…

CHEZ LE POISSONNIER :
Labre, rouget, murène, raie, esturgeon, sardine, thon, maquereau, truite, carpe, goujon, perche, langouste, huîtres, homard, crevettes.
Inconnus :

Chocolat, café, oranges, thé, sucre, tomates, patates, avocats, maïs, riz, bananes, pamplemousse, ananas….

LES REPAS

A partir de la fin de la République, les trois repas quotidiens sont :

LE JENTACULUM

LE PRANDIUM

LA CENA

Les deux premiers sont très légers.

Le jentaculum se prend vers 8 heures du matin. Il comprend pain, dattes, olives et fromage, quelques biscuits pour les enfants.

Le prandium se prend vers 12 heures. C’est un casse-croûte composé d’un morceau de pain, d’un peu de viande froide, de fruits et de vin. Il est suivi par une sieste.

La cena est le repas principal. Il n’a rien de spectaculaire chez le citoyen moyen. Chez les plus riches, il commence après le bain, vers 16 heures, c’est parfois un véritable festin qui peut se terminer à l’aube. (Voir sous «banquet»).

POPEA HERON

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MODESTUM’S BAKERY IN POMPEI
Among the best preserved finds of Pompeii, Modestum’s Bakery was preserved so well that 81 carbonised loaves of bread were found. along with it’s equipment.

The millstones consisting of two parts made from volcanic rock fit into each other (meta and catillus), benches for preparing dough and of course the oven.

The millstones would have had wooden handles sticking out from the square holes and would have been turned by slaves or more frequently by Donkeys.

Several types of bread were made under the Empire. Most of them were round with a double cross, in order that the distribution was easier to make.

  

  
  
LA BOULANGERIE DE MODESTE A POMPEI

L’épaisse chape de cendres produite par l’éruption de 79 après J.-C. a préservé pendant des siècles, parmi les nombreux témoignages exceptionnellement conservés à Pompéi, une boulangerie complète, avec ses équipements : les meules, constituées de deux éléments en lave volcanique, capable de travailler l’une à l’intérieur de l’autre (meta et catillus), les comptoirs pour le pétrissage du pain et le four pour la cuisson.

Le tout est organisé avec efficacité, de façon à coordonner le travail du personnel employé aux différentes tâches avec des critères qui surprennent par leur modernité.

Une des meules a été remise en état, grâce à la reconstitution des parties en bois, rendant ainsi possible la démonstration de son fonctionnement qui, autrefois, s’effectuait par
la force des bras des esclaves ou, plus souvent par la force des ânes.

On a retrouvé dans le four quatre-vingt-un pains carbonisés, de forme ronde avec des parties relevées, semblables à ceux qui apparaissent dans différentes scènes de la vie quotidienne peintes ou sculptées, offert au public dans corbeilles ou des rayonnages.

Plusieurs inscriptions nous apprennent que la vente du pain et des fouaces à Pompéi était confiées à des vendeurs ambulants (lirarii), en plus des boutiques habituelles.

Pistore est le premier nom du boulanger professionnel qui vit le jour à Pompéi en 79 ap. J.-C., il désignait le pileur de blé.

Sous l’Empire, il existe de nombreuses sortes de pain, généralement de forme ronde et marqués d’une double croix pour faciliter le partage.

IL PANIFICIO A POMPEI
Gli scavi archeologici di Pompei testimoniano un numero considerevole di panifici. Ne sono stati individuati almeno 25! Tutti con forno a legna (simili a quelli attuali) e macine in pietra lavica.

Tra i panifici individuati a Pompei, quello di un certo N. Popidius Priscus, il quale abitava nella casa accanto. Nella gestione del suo panificio si faceva aiutare da un liberto (schiavo). Vi erano un forno a legna e 4 macine, in pietra lavica, dura e porosa, erano costituite da un blocco conico (meta), fissato ad una base di muratura, su cui ruotava un elemento a forma di clessidra, il Catillus. Legato con una stanga ad un mulo, il Catillus veniva girato. Il grano veniva versato nel Catillus e triturato dallo sfregamento di due blocchi. Il pane veniva venduto per mezzo di ambulanti (lirarii).

(SOURCE WIKIPEDIA)

POPEA HERON

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Grains

The Romans saw grain as an essential. They preferred vegetables to grain, but grain was something that could be stored against famine.

Having grain meant that people weren’t reduced to combing the woods for acorns and chestnuts, something that would have been seen as barbaric and beneath the dignity of a Roman citizen, however lowly or poor.

In giving its citizens free grain during time of war or famine, the government was protecting its citizens dignity. The free grain allowance was called the “annona”. There was no profit in growing grain in Rome. It was seen as a citizen’s basic right, so it had to be sold at a cost dictated by the state, or even at times distributed free.

The “breadbaskets” of the Roman world were Egypt, Libya, Algeria, Southern France and Sicily. Egypt produced both the most grain by far, and the grain most prized. Egypt continued to be the breadbasket of the ancient world until it was overrun by Arabs, and its millennia old wheat and grape crops perished.

The Romans liked high gluten wheat because of the chewy, stable loaves it made. Barley flour bread was for slaves or soldiers being punished. Barley, millets and oats were considered only fit for the poor. Rye was grown only in the northern part of the Roman Empire, as it was a grain that tolerated the cold.

In the early stages of the Roman Empire, most grain was consumed in the form of Puls: grains cooked in water.

Puls (Pulmentum)

Puls, a boiled wheat porridge, was an important part of the diet in early Rome, before they adopted the habit of using bread as a staple in their diet. Meat or veg could be added to make a stew. Pulmentum could also be made thicker, making it an early precursor to the dish we now know as Polenta.

Cato the Elder (234 BC – 149 BC) was annoyed with the switch in preference from puls to bread; he thought bread was decadent.

Flours

By the 1st century, the preference was definitely for white bread made from white flour. Pure wheat flour was called “siligo”. Second rate breads would be made of wheat with the bran still in them, or of just the bran. In the cheapest breads, dried ground beans, chick peas, green peas and lentils would be mixed in with the flour.

In Caesar’s time, a man named Vitruvio, who also wrote “De Architectura”, invented the use of water wheels to power flour-grinding mills. They began to be more widely used in the first century AD.

Bakeries

A bakers’ guild was formed around 168 BC. Called the Collegium Pistorum, it was an important, respected guild. Bakers could become wealthy. By Augustus’ time (31 BC – 14 AD), there were over 250 bakeries in Rome. Modern estimates put their output at 500,000 loaves a day.

A bakery was called a “pistrinum”. Many bakeries ground the grain as well, thus the alternative word “Pistorum”, meaning “grinders”. The mills for grinding would be turned by asses or horses.

Bakeries had large bowls made of volcanic stone for dough kneading, with the blades turned by animals or slaves. The oven doors would be made of iron. Bakeries would keep on hand baking pans made of bronze for making cakes with. Bakeries even made dog biscuits.

Most Romans in Rome lived in apartments without kitchens, let alone ovens, so they couldn’t bake their own bread. They would buy bread from the bakeries.

Whenever they were given free grain by the state, they would often take most of it to a bakery to grind it for them into flour and make bread from it for them. They still had to pay the bakers for the milling and bread-making, so rather than receiving free grain, it perhaps more accurate to say they got cheap bread (as only the grain part was free.)

Wealthier homes could bake their own bread in their own ovens, but even they still seemed to send their grain out to millers for grinding.

Bread
Roman bread loaves were generally circular and flat, but you could get them in different shapes such as birds or musical instruments such as a lyre for special occasions.

Bakers would also make different designs on them, just as we do today. They were often marked with notches to make them easier to break (and to share.) Bread was also made in stick shapes like baguettes.

Bread was, of course, made in different ways depending on which part of the Empire it was made in. In the province of Egypt, bread was made with “barm” (live yeast from beer brewing), as was bread in northern Gaul and other provinces. But on the peninsula of Italy itself, beer was viewed as a barbarian’s drink, and wine was made instead. Wine yeast, though, isn’t good for making bread from.

Consequently, the Romans in Italy made their bread instead with “starter”, a bit of dough left over from previous batches, as in done with sourdough bread today.

Soldiers were given bread each day, and not allowed to sell or trade it. Warriors were considered heavy-bread eaters, not heavy meat-eaters, as they are now. Our current association of a warrior being a hearty meat-eater is owing to later Germanic influence.

The art of making finer breads was lost for centuries after Rome fell.

Some Roman bread types:

Libae
Small rolls, also oily honey cakes

Panis primis
Bread made from coarse grains other than wheat. Very cheap.

Panis secundus
Bread made from coarse grains, a little better and a little more expensive

Panis plebeius / panis cibarius
Bread made from coarse wheat flour

Panis castrensis, panis militaris
Camp or soldiers bread, made from wheat flour with bran

Panis durus ac sordidus
Dark bread made from bran alone

Panis rusticus
Country style or rustic bread, made from bran

Panis siligineus / siligeces
Bread made from white wheat flour. Made from pure white wheat called “siligo”. Contained no bran.

Panem gallicanorum
Bread that, instead of being sourdough based, would have been made from barm on the top of beer that is being brewed. Made in Gaul.
 
                           

CEREALES ET PAIN

Dans les greniers, on entreposait du froment et des fèves. A Pompéi on a découvert des amphores remplies de farine (mola) et d’épeautre (far).

Le pain apparut assez tard à Rome (IIIe siècle av J.C). Des galettes de céréales le remplaçaient.
Le pain était aromatisé avec des graines de pavot, d’anis et de céleri.
On distinguait selon la qualité plusieurs types de pains: pain de fleur de farine, de farine moyenne, pain noir, pain complet, pain de son.

Parmi les produits céréaliers: l’orge, le blé, l’épeautre, le millet, l’avoine, préparés en bouillies (puls, tisana). Les Romains en consomment tellement que les Grecs les ont surnommés “pultiphagonides”, c’est-à-dire “mangeurs de bouillies”, et dont la plus connue est la polenta, à base d’orge et parfumée de graines de lin.

La légende veut que la découverte du pain levé fût le fruit du hasard dû à un boulanger égyptien. Il aurait laissé plusieurs heures à l’air ambiant une bouillie de céréales et ce mélange, contaminé par une levure sauvage ou par des bactéries, aurait fermenté et levé sous la multiplication des micro-organismes dans la farine.

Beaucoup de domus disposent d’un ou de plusieurs fours à pain. Sous Auguste, Rome compte 329 boulangeries, toutes tenues par des Grecs, experts dans l’art de faire du bon pain. Les pâtissiers (clibanarii) doivent leur nom au moule (clibanus), «tourtière » qu’ils utilisent. Le sucre est inconnu des Romains ; aussi les gâteaux sont-ils au miel.

Sous l’Empire, il existe de nombreuses variétés de pain, généralement de forme ronde et marqués d’une double croix, pour faciliter le partage. Pain blanc, pain au lait et aux œufs pour accompagner les huîtres, pain au lait avec huile et poivre, pain au jus de raisin, pain à la croûte parsemée de graines de pavot, le pain d’orge, le pain de millet, surtout mangé chaud, le pain de campagne, (panis rusticus), le pain militaire (panis militaris)…

Pour les familles les plus pauvres

Depuis le premier siècle, le gouvernement avait décidé de donner du blé à 200 000 familles pauvres de Rome. Chaque mois, ces 200 000 familles, inscrites sur les registres de l’État recevaient 35 kg de blé chacune. A cette distribution, pour éviter les files d’attente, ces famille recevaient une tablette de bois portant le numéro du bureau où elles devaient se rendre et la date de distribution de blé.
LA BOULANGERIE DE MODESTUM A POMPEI
(VOIR PHOTO)

Le blé est moulu dans la cour de la boulangerie. La meule se compose d’une partie fixe, la meta, conique, en pierre dure, sur laquelle s’emboîte une autre pierre en forme de bobine (le catillus) qui peut tourner. Les grains de blé, versés dans le catillus, sont broyés par le frottement des deux pierres et la farine s’écoule dans des récipients dessous.

Les artisans qui utilisent le feu pour leur activité, verriers, potiers, forgerons… sont généralement installés dans la périphérie des villes à cause des risques d’incendie.
 
POPEA HERON

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